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Shaving Know How

It’s something you probably do everyday as automatically as dressing. You reach in the cabinet for your razor and gel and shave the way you always have – the way you saw your dad shave. You see is as a necessary chore, but a chore all the same.

But are you doing it right? Does it need to be a chore? And does it have to leave your skin feeling like its been attacked with a machete?

The simple answer is no. The experts at King of Shaves believe a combination of the correct software (gel, oil or foam), hardware (your razor) and technique will give you a smooth, pain free shave. Shaving is something to be enjoyed, not endured!

We’ve put together a simple guide to help you achieve ‘The World’s Best Shave’ along with some FAQs and common shaving solutions. If you still don’t get it you can email us for more help!

So here goes….

Top Shaving Tips

1: Forget everything you know! Lots of lather does not equal a good shave. Foam sitting on top your skin does nothing so move on!

2: Don’t shave as soon as you get up. Have breakfast first. Give your skin a chance to wake up!

3: Ideally, shave in the shower or bath as the steamy environment will help to soften the bristles, making shaving easier. On average it takes 3.5 minutes for stubble to 'wet out' properly making them easier to shave. If you prefer the old fashioned water in a bowl method, ensure you wash your face first with hot water to ensure those bristles are soft.

4: Spend time preparing your skin. Use a deep cleansing non-soapy face wash (K1ST or ASC Face Wash) and alternate twice a week with a scrub (KXF or ASC Face Scrub). Spend a little time massaging your chosen shaving preparation into your face as this again will help to soften and lift the bristles. Water that is 48F or hotter actualy kills spot causing bacteria.

5: Ensure you have a clean sharp blade and shave using short strokes. It’s key to shave in the direction of your hairs' growth – generally speaking this is down on the cheeks and chin and upwards on the neck. If you are at all unsure, run your finger across your stubble to see which direction the hair is growing. Shaving against the direction of hair growth is the primary cause of razor burn, redness and rashes.

6: Rinse the blade regularly as you shave and don’t press to hard against the skin.

7: If using a shaving gel or foam, rinse your face thoroughly with cool water and pat dry (don't rub). If using a King of Shaves shaving oil, simply pat your face dry.

8: Apply a post shave product (KGL Recovery Gel or K24 Moisturiser) to leave your skin feeling smooth, supple and soft - not tight and dry!

9: Et voila! You have completed the perfect shave!

Some Key "Dos and Don'ts"...

Don’t wash your face with soap. Soaps are usually very drying on the skin and coupled with shaving (which also can be drying), you will make your skin dry, tight and uncomfortable. To effectively (and kindly) cleanse your skin, use a soap free face wash like K1ST or ASC.

Don’t wash your face in cold water prior to a shave. Cold water will close your pores, making the hair harder to cut. Do wash your face and neck thoroughly in warm / hot water prior to shaving.

Don’t apply aftershave to your face. The days of ‘splash it all over’ are long gone. Aftershave is primarily made from alcohol and alcohol, like soap, has a drying effect on your skin. To wear aftershave or a fragrance, simply apply it to the back of your neck or your wrists.

Do read the instructions. To get the full benefit of King of Shaves (or any other) shaving software, take a moment to read the instructions on pack. With our King of Shaves products we are not asking you to forget everything you ever learned about shaving, but these are revolutionary products that work best if you use them as suggested.

Do use an exfoliator at least twice a week, but don't use it daily unless it is specifically designed as a daily use product (like XCD Primer). By over exfoliating, you may actually make your skin greasier as it tries to cope with the loss of moisture caused by the scrub.

Do use a moisturiser like K24 post shave. Shaving can be drying on the skin so you need to help repair this. Moisturiser should be applied as soon as possible after shaving or washing (certainly within 10 minutes).

Do use a moisturiser with a sun protection factor (SPF - like suncream) built in (K24 or XCD Defender). Sun and wind can be very damaging on your skin so you need to protect your skin from UV rays now. SPF is not only for when you hit the beach!

Shaving FAQs

1: Your low-foam shaving gels and oils don’t produce a ‘Father Christmas beard’ of foam... does that mean they don’t work?
It is true to say for most shaving preparations, the more lather in a product produces, the more it will dry out your skin. It may feel good to have a lot of lather on your face, but the fact is that this lather is created by surfactants (similar to detergents) which dry out your skin. As you are already scraping off natural oils when you shave, you do not then want to further dry out your face. Lathering is also wasteful. That white peak of shaving foam, gel or soap isn't actually touching your face - so why is it there?

So "yes", the low foam gels and oils do work. You don’t need to cover your face in foam to get a good shave. Oils and low foam gels allow for precision shaving so you can see exactly what you are doing.

With a clear or low foam shave preparation, the more likely you are to see (and thus avoid) any problem areas such as spots, red or rough skin around the neck and so on. Also, if you have a moustache, goatee or beard, you will be able to shave around it with pinpoint accuracy - something that is impossible with traditional lather based shaving products.

2: I have spots, which I keep making worse by shaving over them. Should I stop shaving?
Not unless you want a beard! The low foam gels and oils we were talking about are ideal for you. They allow you to avoid particularly sensitive areas – so you won’t keep cutting the same spot!

Generally you just need to read and follow our basic shaving tips carefully. They will put you on the right track to achieving a smooth rash free shave even if you have sensitive skin. Specifically we would also advise you to change your shaving 'software' to a non foaming, King of Shaves shaving oil or gel as they are formulated for all skin types but are especially effective if you have sensitive skin.

Our range of shaving software includes products specifically designed for sensitive or spot prone skin (ASC2). Then, for the first four or five days, start shaving before you go to bed at night so you will be sleeping and not fiddling with your rash or burn. Try and shave in the shower if you can - get hold of a non-fog mirror from one of the gadget websites, or shave 'by touch'. Shave slowly using short strokes in the direction of hair growth - use the side of your forefinger to gauge which direction gives less resistance.

Do not be tempted to shave over and over, to get a closer shave. Finally, once you have done this, if you shaved with a gel then splash cool water on your face,and pat your face dry. If you used an oil, simply pat your skin dry. Consider using a post shave gel (like KGL) or moisturiser (like K24) as this will help your skin recover. After three or four days of shaving in this way, your rash should have gone, and you will be able to revert to shaving in the morning remembering to use all the advice above!

Additional tips: to help prevent black heads and other skin impurities we recommend you wash twice a day with a deep pore cleansing soap-free face wash such as the King of Shaves ASC or K1ST Face Wash. Water that is 48F or hotter actualy kills spot causing bacteria so make sure you wash in very warm / hot water. For optimum results, exfoliate your face once or twice a week with a gentle exfoliator (KXF for example) - you may think this is a bit 'girlie' but there is nothing particularly 'manly' about poor skin condition. You owe it to your face to do the best you can for it!

If you suffer from a skin related disorder that prevents you from achieving a pain-free shave, you should consult your local pharmacist or your doctor. Do not simply accept skin problems. Get some help!

3: I have a very heavy beard and find that shaving with the grain doesn’t give me a close enough shave. What can I do?
Begin by shaving with the grain. This removes the bulk of the hair without pulling and scalping the hairs. If you need to, reapply your shaving software and shave again (carefully), going against the grain. Perfect!

Additional tips: don't shave first thing in the morning. Have breakfast, let your skin wake-up! Shaving is made much easier by giving the area to be shaved lots of warm / hot water (or steam) before shaving. So have a bath or shower and wash your face as this softens the bristles and opens up the pores of the skin preparing it for a closer and less painful shave. After washing apply a hot towel to the beard area for a minute or so to really soften and prepare the bristles for a smooth shave.

4: How do I stop razor burn / razor bumps?
These two are kind of linked so we’ll address them together. By having a good shaving routine you should eliminate both. To help eliminate razor bumps, which are caused by the hairs curling round and re-entering the skin (ingrowing), you should exfoliate at least twice a week. Exfoliating is not just for girls!! Use our KXF, ASC Face Scrub or the XCD Primer. Exfoliating helps to remove dead skin and frees ingrowing hair. And by following our top shaving tips (see above), shaving with the grain and not pressing too hard when you shave, you should prevent razor burn.

5: Is it OK to electric shave?
There is no doubt that electric shaving can be faster and simpler than wet shaving. However, electric shaving is harsher on the skin as it strips away natural oils and usually requires the hairs to be dry and brittle to get a close shave. For a closer and more comfortable shave, our advice is to move to wet shaving. But hey, it's a free country, so if you wish to continue with the electric we suggest you apply a few drops of a King of Shaves shaving oil to your face before-hand as it will prepare the skin and stubble and help leave you feeling moisturised (not sandpapered)!

Additional tips: unlike all King of Shaves products, some pre-shave lotions contain alcohol and other astringent (drying) agents which are not good for your skin. So read the label and check the ingredients before you purchase.

6: Is moisturiser for girls?
Certainly not! It's important to look after your skin, irrelevant of your sex, and the daily routine of life damages your skin. Women have been wise to this for years - men have taken a little longer to catch up! Shaving can be very drying on your skin and coupled with weather and lifestyle conditions (yes, those late nights drinking in the pub will affect your skin) you need to protect it. Many of products on the market that claim to be able to replace moisture are lying - once it's gone it's gone, but you can help to protect the skin by using a moisturiser post shave. They key is to lock moisture into the skin rather than try and replace it later. The simplest way to do this is to apply a moisturiser or post shave gel / balm to the skin as soon after shaving (or washing) as possible, but definitely within ten minutes of shaving (or washing). If you use a moisturise with a built in SPF, all the better!

7: Does it matter what sort of blade or razor I use?
The brand name of the blade is far less important than the state it is in. You will not get a close shave from a blunt blade; you will be shaved on parts of the face and not on others and you will end up with redness and blotches on your face and neck. The cure is simple. As soon as you feel a blade is not performing properly, replace it!

However we do recomend our system razors, the Azor for men, and the Azure for women, as they have been designed to work in harmony with our shaving gels, oils and serums.

Shaving with a cut-throat razor (or open or straight razor) is becoming popular again. A little practice with this rediscovered method can give you a great shave and really give you the edge trimming shaped beards and lining up those awkward sideburns. For a well illustrated guide on how to hold and use a cut-throat razor visit www.cutthroat-shaving.co.uk.

8: Should I use mentholated shaving software?
King of Shaves offers a wide choice of mentholated or unmentholated products for the simple reason many people love the super cooled feeling they get after shaving with a mentholated product. Very occasionally, menthol can cause a slight reaction with some skin types so simply by switching to an unmentholated version of a product can help significantly to reduce redness and sore areas.

9: What's the best method of shaving my head?
For a great head shave, simply follow our basic shaving tips. If you would like more information on head shaving, try visiting www.headshaveproducts.com.

10: There is so much choice. How do I know which product to use?
Easy! Follow our simple product selector below...

Product Selector

There is a baffling array of products on the market. So how do you know which one is for you? And should you use a face scrub and a moisturiser? Aren’t they a bit ‘girlie’?

The simple answer is that it’s never too soon to look after your skin and it’s not just for girls. In fact, the girls are streets ahead of us men and it's time we caught up! Looking after your skin does not mean acquiring a huge array of products to rival the woman in your life. It just means paying attention to your skins specific needs.

We’ve tried to address some of the most common questions asked about shaving, recommending specific products within the answers.

You make so many gels and oils. What’s the difference and how do I know which one to use?
All of our gels have a low foam formula and all are suitable for sensitive skin. Here's a brief outline of the key differences:

  • Supercooled Menthol
    This gel contains menthol which is used to give a cooling sensation on the skin as well as giving it a wake up kick! Avoid it if you class your skin as extra sensitive as menthol can, in rare cases, be an irritant.
  • Naturally Unmentholated
    The same formulation as our Supercooled Menthol products, but without the menthol. An ideal starter gel!
  • ASC Antibacterial
    This range was designed specifically with young shavers in mind, but you can use it whatever your age! This range contains tea tree to help fight spot causing bacteria. It does this without stripping the skin of its essential oils.
  • DSC Extra Sensitive
    Fragrance and colour free. The gel contains a high concentration of Aloe to soothe the skin as you shave.
  • Advanced
    Incorporated in this range are our Kinexium Oil, Magnagel, Alphaglide and Magnaglide. All have additional ingredients to improve razor glide. Ideal if you find you need something 'more' than our traditional Alphagels can offer. All of these, except Magnaglide, are unmentholated.
  • KU
    An antibacterial range with more natural ingredients and no parabens, ideal for young sensitive skin or spot / belmist prone skin.

Should I use an oil or a gel?
Both will give you an excellent shave so its personal choice. If you travel regularly, try the oil as its small size makes it the perfect travelling companion. You can also use them in combination - add 2-3 drops of the oil, massage well into the face, then apply a small amount of the gel over the top.

I have oily skin. Surely adding oil to it is a bad idea?
Using a shaving oil will not make your skin oiler.

What will give me the best shave?
This is a tricky one as personal preference plays a large role here, but this is our suggestion:

  • Wash your face daily with a face wash – try K1ST or ASC Face Wash.
  • Twice a week, change and use a scrub – try KXF or ASC Face Scrub.
  • Select a gel or an oil based on the information above.
  • Currently, we would recommend a Azor razor for men (or the Azure for women) for the best shave.
  • After shaving, apply K24 if you like an unfragranced product, or KGL post shave gel if you like a subtle smell!

I have extremely sensitive skin. What should I avoid?
If you find that fragrance irritates the skin, try our DSC oil or gel coupled with our K24 moisturiser. Although none of our gels contain fragrance, the DSC range contains an extremely high level of aloe vera to soothe the skin and has no colour or fragrance, which makes it ideal for extra sensitive skin.

What’s so great about the advanced gels and why should I spend more on them?
This is where we get technical. All of our gels give an excellent shave, but these products have been enhanced to give you an even better shave. All contain ingredients to assist with razor glide.

The Kinexium oil achieves this with the addition of silicones.

MagnaGel uses tiny magnetic particles that stick to the blade - thus providing you with an additional layer between the skin and the blade.

AlphaGlide contains LubriNyl-12. This behaves like a micro-thin layer of ball bearings on the skin to reduce friction and razor drag. 

MagnaGlide is a combination of both of these technologies. A little pricer, but worth it

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Please email site.comments@shave.com. © 1993-2009 The King of Shaves Company Ltd. E&OE. Updated Tue, Jun 2, 2009